Bali, Surf, Thoughts

java volcanos

weather on bali is amazing. its raining alot.
i love the rain. makes the pollution go away. gives the sun a new chance.
makes people go inside. stop stressing around. think.
wait out the rain. waiting.
it makes the air blow out the sea. the wind go offshore.
makes the lineup empty.
paddle out in the warm water. ten degrees hotter than the wind.
raindrops hitting layers of water. smashing the water back up again.
silent broken underneath the surface.
huge walls of water racing against me. fierce and violent. like the thunder.
thunder every day. watching it from the ocean. from the surfboard.
amazing cloads. shapes. sunrain. sunshine.
huge contrasts and colours.
and the java volcanos on the left.






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