One morning we saw something break further down the beach, it looked perfect and there where no one surfing there. We decided to go try it out and of course we didn’t tell anyone. Wooohaaaa it was practically a wave that turned in to a barrel right away and barrelling all the way to the shore. Like a dream come true.
It was so heavy haha, we got so beaten up but I got like 3 perfect cover-ups and both of us got some pretty awesome rides. We fell in love with this wave and surfed it for our selfs every day, why surf the main brake with a crowd of 8?
We named it the hole, or Hålledt. Because that’s exactly what it was, a hole.