Image mix up from the last days.
Our next stop was at this gated community far out in Nicaraguan nowhere land. It’s off season so there where like no people, but we where happy about that because right in front is one of the worlds best waves. Hemmies. And it’s not named hemmies for nothing.. Hemmies for hemmoriods, and if it’s not
We LOOOOVE this place. This hotel is the only one of it’s kind in Puerto Sandino and it doesn’t sleep that may people. That means no possible crowd in the water. It’s right on the break. Waves are pumping and the winds off shore all days. There where like 8 people staying here when we
One morning we saw something break further down the beach, it looked perfect and there where no one surfing there. We decided to go try it out and of course we didn’t tell anyone. Wooohaaaa it was practically a wave that turned in to a barrel right away and barrelling all the way to the
Woke in another amazing surf hotel we’ve got to stay at. If the place was super nice, the waves where super duper super wooohaaa nice! The outside reef was pumping and it was stand up barrel time!
This is Puerto Escondido, the mexican wave machine aka the “mexican pipeline” . It´s a beach brake that gets overhead and tubing with NO swell.. The swell was about 2ft when these images where shot. If you wanna have a look at hard core surf you should definitely go here cuz i haven’t seen a
On Sri Lanka we heard about an incredible Indonesian surfer from a fellow traveller. Rumors said he was a priest and connected with god threw the sea.. Also he was probably Indonesia’s best surfer. He described him surfing and getting speed faster than anyone else and when in the tube he stood in a praying
Bali finns med mig lite i varje andetag. Trots nypotatis, glass, hallands väderöar och solsken. Magic evening in Bingin, Bali.
padang padang is balis most cranking wave and it needs soo much swell to go off. the ride is super short and its just constant barreling. on bali its really cool to chill out on the beach and watch the surf (when its too big), but this day it was just mad!!
jag kommer ihåg när pappa berättade om hans hole-in-one. han sa att jag inte fick säga det till nån, för det är en sån magisk sak som alla golfare vill göra, som bara händer, eller inte händer liksom. och pappa var själv när han gjorde det så därför tyckte han att det var lika bra