nick woke up one minute after sunrise as usual, ran down the dirtroad the check the surf in uluwatu. apparently it was better than expected cuz he didnt check it good enough. chest to head high and perfect for a fun session with my new biscuit he reported. so i grabbed my 5´7 biscuit and
internet är tillochmed inkluderat i rumspriset där vi bor, men inte är det snabbt. men vi är inte heller på något speciellt civiliserat ställe, vi är på kuta lombok och här är det precis som jag föreställt mig kuta bali på 70-80 talet. några få ställen att käka och bå på, inga poliser ingen stress
picked up a really cool board the other day! a mc gregor 1977 singefin gun! a surfboard-beach-hire-guy-that-doesnt-surf found it in a hotel on sri lanka whose owner (an australian dude) passed away a few years ago. i saw i german guy riding the white water with it and just could stand it, the board is
last autumn on the eastcoast, south sweden. 4 degress in the water, no hood, no boots, no gloves, holes in my wetsuit. but also three meter swell and a strong offshore.
“A boat trip in Indo sounds pretty neat, so what kind of person would prefer to go on a cold water charter?” Exciting thoughts about what makes surfing exciting. TheArticSurfBlog means that surfing is best alone, and that the best chance to score great waves, with no crowd would be at the most desert place
Our mother who art the ocean, hollow be thy waves, thy tempests come, their fetch be felt on earth as they sweep the seas. Give us this day our daily swell; and forgive us fading others as we forgive them dropping in on us. And lead us not onto Jet Skis but deliver us from
